Monday 29 November 2010

18-20th November Monkey Mia/Francois Peron national park

We arrived in Denham after a long drive from Coral Bay, on route we had stopped for Lunch with some of the other guys in Carnarvon.  Carnarvon seemed to be a very purposeful town with the fruit plantations being the main employers in the area.  Suzie had tried to do some fruit picking the day before and found it hard work and very unrewarding as the farmer wanted to pay cash in hand which would mess up her employment terms on her working visa.
Denham was a small and laid back town with a couple of fishing boats just off shore and fish filleting stations along the shore for the fishermen to work their magic on their catch.  This was a good place to base ourselves for the next couple of days for our visits to Monkey Mia and Francois National Park.  The town has a couple of restaurants but we plumped for the Old Pearler Restaurant which was built from bricks made of seashells.  The food was good as was the company and we settled in for some beers when we got back, with some of the other guys in the dorm.  We met some Ozzies, and Dieter and Wendy from Belgium.  Everyone was a good laugh and we had a great couple of days in the dorm.
Monkey Mia was an exciting little adventure as we headed to see the dolphins.  The dolphins were very friendly and came close enough that a couple of chosen individuals could feed the dolphins some fish.  We couldn't wade into the water however as one of the dolphins had a new born and they can be defensive of newborns (I suspect must Mums would be!!).  On the last feed there were just 4 people near me and I reckoned that we could have all fed the dolphins as each dolphin is fed 5 fish.  The first person decided to completely ignore the instructions of the guide and pat the dolphin on the head.  The dolphins sonar sensors are in the top of its head.  So it was equivalent of hitting someone over the back of head with a spade and pretty much left the dolphin looking like he had had 10 pints of Stella followed by 10 whiskey chasers.  Needless to say the dolphin didn't fancy much more fun with the overly "friendly" humans for the day!!!  After lunch we jumped on a boat with the Belgium dorm mates and went for a cruise on a very cool catamarann.  On this trip we managed to see some dugongs ( http://www.reelearth.org.nz/modules/content/images/image/87_dugong.jpg ).  These are an endangered specie and so I was honoured to see these amazing creatures in the wild.  The boat followed these around and when they were not spotting wildlife I lay on the web netting just above the water between the hulls and chilled!!!
Francois Peron National park was a tour we did in a 4x4 as it was pretty inaccessible.  We had a great time and visited some good spots looking down on the coast.  From there we were able to spot Manta Rays, a couple of sharks, loads of turtles, and a lot of it maybes which were very much like the murky shadows seen in Coral Bay!!! At the Peron homestead (local farm) we learnt the original homestead had been in the local town, but was moved as the sheepshearers were more keen on beer than shearing sheep.  The morning would start with a full compliment of shearers ( http://blog.umbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Alan-Shearer-Red-Celebration.jpg ), and at each morning/afternoon break and lunchtime they would steadily loose the crew, and at the end of the day be lucky to have anyone working.  After 10 years of trying to contain the drinking the answer was to move the farm!!!!!!
Off to Kalbarri tomorrow as we start the final run in to Perth, so will be looking forward to being company to a couple of backpacks, cool bags and food bags in the back of the car for the next two days!!

11-17th November, Coral Bay

Diana, Armin and I arrived in Coral Bay after pretty much a mornings driving from Exmouth.  On route out of Exmouth we went to the local prawn trader, and took some photos of a 12foot prawn attacking us, and other silly scenarios involving a 12 foot prawn.
Coral Bay has a population of 190 so the town pretty much consists of one street on which lies a hostel, a couple of camp sites, a petrol station and small quick-e mart, and a small mall consisting of about 5 shops.  There was of course a bar which I thought we would become well acquainted (I was proven correct over the next couple of days).
Coral Bay is probably best known on the tourist circuit for the coral reef around it and the shark nursery.
A couple of days Armin and I headed down to the shark nursery and was greeted with a couple of shadows moving up and down the beach  in the sea.  Unfortunately there was a distinct lack of fins and Jaws music to accompany the shadows that were trying to look as murky and un-shark like as possible.
Fortunately this was a very minor fly in the ointment which was Coral Bay.  The beach was beautiful and I spent a large amount of time lost in a number of Clive Cussler books whilst I topped up my suncream to ensure I remain the nice pale white everyone knows me for!!!!  Sometimes the suncream made me even more pale than I had started off.  Whilst cooling off in the sea I managed to spy a sting ray and followed it (at a safeish distance).
Some of the divers had managed to meet some new friends and over the next couple of days we got to meet some new friends, Mark and Mandy were on holiday from the channel bays and became good drinking buddies over the next couple of days!! We also met Chris who managed to get the girls into a little groups of gossip girls!!! I also met Christi from Canada who rapidly integrated into our little band of brothers. I was also complimented by Sheherazade as being a typical gentleman (as the Irish guy she had been chatting to 5 mins before had been making lewd comments might have helped with this compliment!!).  I also ran into Sandra who had been in our dorm at Broome and was heading down the coast as a tour guide - managing to embarrass myself by not recognising her initially (taxi for Hearty???)
Perhaps one of the best discoveries in Coral was the bakery (recommended rightly so in Lonely Planet and Rough guide) where a staple lunch diet of Curry Pie followed by Apple and Custard pie was strictly followed.  This also led to the consequence of making sure I did try and maintain a healthy regime of eating out and social drinking in the evenings!!!
Well after such hard work and backbreaking health regimes I have decided that it was too much and we are going to head to Monkey Mia to visit the dolphins!!!

Tuesday 23 November 2010

3-10th November Exmouth

Arrived in Exmouth (not the one in uk but the one in Oz).  It was an interesting little town with a population of 2500.  I arrived there at 1am on the greyhound bus after travelling from Broome for a full 13 hours. 
Suzie, Cal and I had arrived on the bus and met Dianna and Armin whohad driven there earlier.
Unfortunately due to the days travel I missed the Melbourne cup - its the horse racing event of the year in Oz and probably stops the country as much as the National does in the UK.  We stopped at a couple of roadstations on route and theladies behind the counters were dressed for the events with hats and dresses.
Exploring Exmouth I found that you were just as often likely to see an emu on the pavement as much as a pedestrian.
The town is also the gateway to NigalooMarine park, with snorkling and diving to match (some say beat) the Great Barrier reef.  In my inifinte wisdom I have lost my PADI certificate so diving was not really an option so snorkling was the best way to get in and see the corals and fish.  I went and stopped off at the Oyster stacks where there was some beautiful corals to snorkel around (and try to cut yourself on).  This was also where I saw a moray eel (kindly pointed out by Cal).  I also had an amazing experience as a school of giant snapper went either side of me and I must have been surrounded by 80-90 of them.  This was fantastic but then realised if something was going to take a bite of the fish it would probably go for the big slow one in the middle!!!!!!
Just down the coast from the oyster stacks was Turquoise Bay and it really did live up to its name, and so I had a quick paddle and soaked up the beauty of the area. I also soaked up a bit too much sun where I had not covered myself properly.  I was then left with a beautiful red patchy mark with white handprints where I had covered.  Nice.
Dianna, Suzie and I also decided to venture to the Karijini national park.  We found a number of gorges that were impressive and beautiful.  I had a nice morning swim in a cool pool beneath a waterfall.  This was a great start to a day and we went further on to another waterfall.  The heat however was sweltering and it appears that the planets population of flys had decided to mass on the Karijini whilst we were there.  Di was the driver and was shattered after driving on unsurfaced (bumpy as hell) roads, but she did a great job and didnt moan.  After two nights (the twogirls were squeezed into one tent, I had the luxury of one) we decided to head back to Exmouth for the night and then on to Coral Bay.  I really think we had been spoiled after seeing the Kimberleys as the gorges were equal to the Kimberleys and so it seemed both Karijini and the Kimberleys mix into one.  Off to Coral Bay tomorrow.  It has a population of 190 - I bet they have to have abouts 10 jobs each to keep the town going!!!!!

Tuesday 9 November 2010

1st - 3rd November - Cape Leveque

A couple of the group were getting itchy feet and wanted to explore a bit more of the wilderness.  Cally, Suzie and I have rented a 4x4 to go to Cape Leveque.  We have been warned that the roads were difficult for a "normal" car so decided to press on with a 4x4.  Setting off at a reasonable time we headed the short distance to where the surfaced road ends and the roads becomes an unsurfaced road and becomes a bit more difficult to pass.  Along the route we did see a couple of cars that had been abandoned and so I felt a bit happier with our choice of vehicle.  We pushed on and found ourselves a camp site at middle lagoon.  This was a beautiful cove and the camp site overlooked it.  The beach had soft white sand and the sea was warm.  I spent a bit of time messing around in the sea, before we went back to camp and set up a camp fire.  We returned and watched the sun go down before cooking up tea on the camp fire.
The following day we headed north to the peak of Cape Leveque and to a pearl farm.  Cygnet Bay was the first Australian owned pearl farm.  We had a tour and learnt more about how the process was manufactured.  At the end of the tour we were shown different pearls, and I managed to handle a $50,000 pearl necklace!!!
After that we headed to our next camp site and this was a more upmarket camp site.  Free wood to set up a fire, a BBQ station - and most importantly a shop selling ice creams as the weather was sweltering.  We settled in and Cal and I went to watch the sunset as Suzie had come down with a bug.  We made a nice meal for tea and settled in for bed.  The night was exciting as thunder clouds were in the distance and I was worried that a storm was heading in. 
I awoke the following morning to find that the storm had decided that someone else was having a nicer camping holiday and fortunately wanted to gatecrash their gig.
We headed back to Broome with a bit of adventure a rain cloud had decided to rain on the unsurfaced road.  Fortunately for us the designated driver, Suzie, is a farmers daughter and managed to control a skid after a bit of a hairy moment.  I cant help thinking it was fun - when really I should have been more concerned about my safety..
We finished the day with a beer on cable beach back in Broome, and fish and chips supper.  Nice.

Thursday 4 November 2010

24th - 30th October - Broome

After the adventures of the Kimberleys checking into a 12 bed dorm seemed like a bit of luxury!  Broome is a very small town and seems to be the gateway to the Kimberleys.  It also has a beautiful beach called Cable beach named after the telegraph cable laid between Oz and Java in 1889 which I planned to visit in the first couple of days there - unfortunately a saltwater croc had the same idea and the authorities decided to warn people from bathing there for a couple of days.  The tour group have become a real unit and on the second night there we decided to have a picnic on the beach and hope the saltie wouldn't gatecrash the party.

After the first couple of days I moved from the YHA hostel I was at as it seemed more like party central or a workers doss for the travellers who were working there and head to the hostel where most of the others in teh group were.  Beaches is new hostel with a great chilled atmosphere and facilities are more like a hotel than hostel.

Broome is a funny place as they have a 95 year old open air cinema which is quite impressive and so we took in a movie one night.  This was a real comedy moment as in this historic site settled in with popcorn and coke, watching trailer for upcoming movies came a real 3D experience.  A large jet flew over at no more than 100m up above us.  This is the other strange thing in Broome.  The airport is slap bang in the centre.  So planes coming in give a birds eye view of the town, and passengers can probably work out whats on at the cinema, and where the local chippy is.

I also discovered another fantastic place to chill in Broome - Matsos.  This is a small brewery which is now sending beer all over the country (sounds like the Coniston brewery), and further.  On three seperate occasions a couple of dedided to head to the Broome museum and for one reason or another got side tracked heading to Matsos.  I blame the heat!!!

I was starting to feel that life was getting to luxurious again so have decided to head out with Suzie and Cally to Cape Leveque for a bit of outdoors camping and 4x4 fun and games.  We have rented a 4x4 and have some plans to see some more beauty spots on the coast.  Iam not sure if it is the sites I want to see or that I cant used to the luxury of a mattress again!!!  I guess I will have time to work that one out on the drive up.

15th - 23rd October - Kimberleys

I have decided to take a tour of the Kimberleys as it is a baragin basement tour.  It was reduced from $1650 to $1000, and is done by 4x4 into the Kimberleys.  Apparently if you want to get into the Kimberleys you need to do it this way otherwise you dont get to see half the great things out there.  It was pretty much all inclusive of food, swags (sleepings bags), and a guide who can tell you which spots to swim in without being eaten by crocs!!!

I started at 6am and knew it was going to be a massive trip as the Kimberleys are bigger than Germany and the first day was going to be a long drive from Darwin - about 1000km.  The group seem like a great bunch with 3 Germans (Gurda, Diana and Armin), 2 Brits (Cally and Suzie), and an Israeli, Shy.  I decided against making any jokes about Shys name as she used to be in Israeli intelligence and was actually doing some field ops, need to know etc... We spent the first day driving and getting to know each other - which also involved giving Suzie a full update on the last series of Dr Who and what the new Doctor had been like since taking over from David Tennant.  Fortunately we had a couple of stops and were able to have a small dip in the Katherine Hot springs.

Cam was our Ozzie tour guide, and driver, and chef... well generally everything.  He seemed to know what he was doing in the bush and we all mucked in with setting up camp.  The first camp site was a fantastic place overlooking a river.  The site was actually on a croc farm, and the river was full of salties (saltwater crocodiles).  We were advised against going near the water in case the crocs fancied us for take away!  We have been advised to expect some changing weather as it was the wet season and so storms might be part of the trip.

Day 2 saw us head to Lake Argyle and taking a fantastic boat trip, dipping in the water, drinking beer and generally messing about.  I managed to watch the sunset floating in the lake with a cold beer - fantastic.. Before we set up camp Cam decided to do his Crocodile hunting experience and dived in the lake and caught a freshwater croc (these are OK to humans assuming you dont annoy them).  He got it on board and I had a hold of the Croc.  I woke the following morning in my swag on the edge of an island beach to watch the sunrise over the Lake.  Quite stunning. 

We headed from there to the Bungle Bungles ( http://www.treknature.com/gallery/Oceania/Australia/photo155084.htm ).  The Bungles were formed up as almost a ripple effect when the Australia landmass was formed and so the rock rises up.  The strange dark lines are actualy bacteria which forms on the rock.  We had a good nosey around the Bungles, and was impressed with Cathedral gorge.

The next 4 days we travelled along the Gibb River road in a leisurely fashion.  Stopping at different waterfalls, and gorges and enjoying swims, quite often with freshwater crocs as our neighbours!!

We finally ended up at Windjana gorge which is an ancient coral reef, now inland and completely exposed.  In the formation there is a long cave which we ventured into 750m of dark tunnel with headtorches and a bit of intrepidation.  There were bats and freshies to keep us company though so I think we were happy.  Finally we arrived in Broome.

I really enjoyed the trip and sleeping under the stars was a real treat, living off a camp fire was fun and Cam managed to even pull off a couple of cracking meals, including a lamb roast, which on a camp fire is no mean feat.  However after getting bitten to bits by mosies I was glad of a bit of pampering and laziness in Broome..

Saturday 23 October 2010

12th, 13th and 14th October - Darwin

I arrived in Sydney after leaving BA.  The flight went down the east coast of Argentina and across the south pole.  Over the sheets of ice and all... A quick overnight stop in Sydney where it managed to rain constantly and then head to Darwin where apparently the rainy season has kicked in early!!
Arriving in Darwin there were clear sky and beatiful warm trpoical weather.  Darwin is the only city in Oz to have a true tropical climate and it was making itself well known to me, and me and the shower and swimming pool were becoming best mates!
Darwin has had some real hard times in the recent past.  In WW2 they were hit by a Japanese attack where more bombs were dropped than on pearl harbour.  This was actually kept quiet from the Australian public so as to not damage morale.  The port had been caught by suprise and only 12 US fighters had been in the air to fight off an attacking force of over 500 planes.  This led to over 200 lives being lost (although it is contested as to whether this was greater.  The port was interesting and it was good to get into the shade of some massive oil tanks that had been built underground in the war.  They were an impressive peice of engineering ( http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Oceania/Australia/West/Northern_Territory/Darwin/photo1087951.htm).
The other major event in Darwin history was that of Cyclone Tracy an unwanted Xmas visitor turning up on Xmas Eve 1974.  This killed 71 people and left just 400 of the 11200 houses standing.
Whilst in Darwin I also did some familiar tourist spots.  One was Fannie Bay Gaol.  This was a jail that had been built in 1883, and had been largely an open prison with inmates washing themselves in the sea on the beach outside, and disposing of the nights waste buckets at the same time.  Begs the question what was the point in bathing there!!!  However it couldn't be that bad as sometimes there were more inmates than they had on the roll call.
Andrea my new Italian mate gave me a lift to the Aviation Museum where I was able to feel rather small against the B52 bomber which managed to have half the exhibits under its wings http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.nachohat.org/top_end_2001/PIC00030.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.nachohat.org/top_end_2001/darwin_air.html&usg=__S5hgC45jk7oFKh-CTIlmvY5QTIA=&h=600&w=800&sz=83&hl=en&start=7&sig2=cJIZv8MEOh8htp3oQMuOzA&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=3cJwYtfxba0W_M:&tbnh=107&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Db52%2Bbomber%2Bdarwin%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-au%26tbs%3Disch:1&ei=Br7DTOToA8ikcYugnIsN!! There were some other good exhibits in there including a mirage and Japanese Zero (or the remains of it).
At the Crocosaurus Cove I managed to see some of the largest saltwater crocs and they impressed (and scared most people) at feeding time.  I was lucky enough to feed some smaller crocs and don't worry I still have all my limbs and used a fishing line rather hand handing it to them.  I also handled a small Croc and was fortunate that it decided to soil itself on the next person rather than me!!
I have booked a trip into the Kimberleys for 10days - so I will be signing off and resorting to smoke signals for the foreseeable future.  Heres is to hoping I sleep under the stars without being biten by snakes, spiders, scorpions or eaten by a croc!!

6-9th October Buenos Aires

Arrived in BA early from the flight and the hotel were good enough to let me have the room early and so get my head down to rest for a bit.
Once recovered I ventured out and over the next couple of days went to see some of the sights.  First on the list was to turn left and head to see the main government/parliament building.  This was strange as it has been heavily influenced by the US congress building and so looked very very similar.  I  reckon the US might have just dropped the plans off with them.  I wondered down the other end of the road (Plaza DeMayo) to check out the the Cathedral.  This didnt come across as a usual Cathedral (ie: architecture weas not in the usual style) as it looked more like a Roman Temple with pillars at the front.  Inside the remains of the General who achieved independence from Spain are kept guard by two soldiers in smart dress.  Across the square is the Casa Rosada which is a pink building made famous by Evita shouting down from it (the scene Dont cry for me Argentina in the film Evita).  Perhaps the interesting thing about the building is that the colour pink was obtained by a mix of Ox blood and white wash.... 
There were a couple of othere sites of note.  The Cemenerio De La Recoleta, which is the final resting place for Eva Peron (Evita) amongst many other famous Argentinians.  Around the corner from there was a converted El Ateneo Grand Splendid ( http://argentinastravel.com/268/el-ateneo-in-buenos-aires-a-bookstore-to-end-all-bookstores/ ) which is a converted theatre.  I spent a while in there sipping a nice coffee and feeding my addiction to sweet croissants that the Argentinians seem to produce at every opportunity!!
The Cabildo De Buenos Aires was the seat of the Spanish controlled government until 1821 and was a wide front building until they decided to fit some roads around it and knocked 11 arches off the edges of the building.  Think the independence might have been going to their heads as it looks bit wonky now.
On my travels in BA I was asked if I was Italian 3 times - not sure whats going on there??? I also met a Boltonian who lived in Amsterdam for 20 years and had a distinctly weird accent.
I was sad as  I left for the airport as it was the first leg of the trip over and heading to Oz, it was the start of a new adventure, and a long trip to Darwin, via Sydney!!!

Monday 11 October 2010

4th, and 5th October - Lima

It was the last day of the 4 of us together so we got together early and Lucy was the guide for the day.  We went to the central part of Lima so as to see many of the old sites and I could go to my $14 hotel.  Yes $14 for a room in the Gran Bolivar hotel in Lima.
We set off and headed into the old square where the cathedral, and old government building was.  We got some nice photos and I was shocked when Andrea and Lucy took photos of the fountain in the centre.  We then headed for a coffee in one of the oldest saloons in Lima.  We ordered coffee with milk, and got milk with a splash of coffee.  I dont think any of us finished the drinks and then took some photos of the old saloon - tried to work out how on earth they had been going so long making such bad coffee.  OK we have been reared on Starbucks and so probably don't have a clue what the hell a good coffee is but not sure about loading it with condensed milk!!!
We headed off to the catacombs and had a guided (if rather fast) tour.  It was fascinating to think that they buried so many bodies underneath the church, and they were connected underground to other churches.  The bones are no longer as they were originally as when investigations were made to count the bodies the bones were separated (skulls together etc) so as to ascertain the corect numbers of bodies.
We then went to see the changing of the guard and whilst impressive there are still things we do well in our country and think we can claim the title for than one.  Also not wholly convinced when the band started playing the Rocky theme as the soldiers parted ways!!  Just to make things more strange we bumped into some of the Tucan group again.
Went for lunch in China town and then said my goodbyes to the guys and a big hug for Andrea as she was leaving tonight.  I headed back to my hotel.  The hotel had been the favourite haunt of Hemmingway in his day, and also has a Ford Model T in the reception.  The room was first rate and very impressive with a lot of art deco to spice things up.
The following day I met with Steve and Lucy and we explored Lima seeing the sights and going to do some retail therapy.  Steve kicked my ass at ten pin bowling as Lucy went to get her haircut - yes we were doing the cultural thing on track.  Keeping the theme going we went for burgers at lunch.  Steve and I had Bembo burgers (Peru answer to McDonalds), and Lucy picked a burger king.  Lucy manged to win the best burger contest, and I vowed not to argue with the Americans about burgers again.
In the afternoon we said our goodbyes and headed our different ways - Steve back to Britain and Lucy tearing her way back across South America through Chile and off to Buenos Aires.  I was really sad to see them as I drove off in the taxi as I had some great experiences with them, and Lucy had been following me around since Rio (almost 2 months!!!).  I headed to the airport for an overnight flight to Buenos Aires!

3rd October - Pisco to Lima

Went for a boat ride out to the Ballestas islands to see the wildlife.  Andrea and Steve joined me and we hit the sea in a speed boat heading out to the remote Ballestas islands which are uninhabited apart from the bird, which include pelicans, penguins and sea lions.  We had a fun time as the birds decided to pass on some good luck to some of us on the boat (glad I brought some tissues).  It was quite impressive and more the remarkable that once every 4 years they collect the bird droppings for fertilizer. Nice!!
When we got back Lucy told us that a plane had crashed down in Nazca killing the crew and tourists on board.  There were 4 Brits on boards and the Peruvian pilot and co-pilot.  It was on the same day that Andrea and I had gone up but later on in the day.  We had been told that going up was a bit scary and that there was best times to go up, between 11-1, and this plane had come down at 5 in afternoon.  It was quite a sobering moment as I had a lot of worries before going up.
To make things a little bit more concerning apparently there was a tremor in Pisco last night - I managed to sleep through it, but I think some others might have felt it.
Got to Lima for our last night together and rather sad as I am going to miss Steve, Lucy and Andrea as we have become good friends travelling together.

2nd Sept Nazca to Pisco - fun in the sand

Today we travelled to Pisco.  However this was not just a road trip day.
We stopped at an Oasis.  Yes quite literally a water hole in the middle of sand dunes.  We jumed a dune buggy and all hell broke loose.  The driver raced over huge drops and we screamed for our lives.  The sand dunes were huge (Formby doesnt touch these things!!).  We then jumped off the buggy and onto some boards and slid head first down the sand dunes.  What an adrenaline rush!!!  Steve, Andrea, Lucy and I were all buzzing by the time we came down from the dunes for a spot of lunch.
We headed to Pisco after lunch (still pumped with adrenaline), and the wineyards where they showed us how they made Pisco (and yes there was samples consumed).
Pisco was our overnight stay and we could see the devastation of the 2007 earthquake, which was still apparent in the city.  They have a lot of social problems with crime and such due to the poverty created by the earthquake, so we stayed around the hotel for most of the evening.

31st September Nazca

Yesterday was meant to be spent enjoying the sites of Arrequipa, however I was still suffering from the pork crackling the day before.  We travelled overnigh by coach and arrived in Nazca.
Nazca is one of the highlights for me as I have always wanted to see the Nazca lines and have been fascinated by them for such a long time.
Funnily the Tucans are here - not the birds but the other tour group who seem to appear nearly everywhere we go!!
We did a tour of the ancient burial sites where a lot of damage has been done by the grave robbers and many of the bones still lie on the surface beacause of this now.  The preserved mummies were very impressive though.  After the burial site we headed to a workshop where they showed us how they made the ceramics during the times of the Nazcas.
Then the big one.  Andrea and I were crazy enough to get into a small plane to fly over the Nazca lines.  Everyone on the trip so far had said that they struggled to hold onto stomach during the flight and stomach certainly registered a couple of complaints during the flight.  The flight was bumpy and plenty of turbulence added to the cocktail.  However the lines were amazing and despite losing my lunch would not have changed it.  The lines are drawn in the desert and can only be observed from a great height (by plane or such).  It is unkown how they lines were drawn and why?? Not too sure if Erik Von Danikens theories about UFO landing sites is true though.  They are probably on par with Machu Pichu for the highlights so far.

28th-29th Colca Canyon

Set off early (again) to get to the Colca Canyon.  This is the deepest Canyon in world and one of the surrounding mountains also is the starting point for the Amazon river (making that the longest).  The journey was a 5hour drive along some cliff faces and across some wide open spaces (couldnt vary much more).  Lunch on the first day was a buffet lunch - it was quite memerable as Shyri told us about some fat Americans, as they had spent 5 hours at the same lunch sitting and it was only meant to be just over an hour!! The smae people did the Inca trail not long ago.  The second day in on the trail the fat Americans refused to walk any further and had to be carried by the Sherpas to Machu Pichu and they still said they did the Inca Trail!!!
Anyway funny stories aside the first of the Canyon was quite impressive, and the sides had been cultivated by pre-Inca civilisations into terraces which they farmed.  The Spanish destroyed many of these terraces when they invaded.  Afternoon was spent in a spa with a nice temperature in region of 38degree, and some cocktails at the side.
The next day we headed to the deepest point of the Canyon and walked along the side (scary!!!).  We took some photos and then waited round for the condors to appear.  They duly obliged although proved very elusive when trying to get photos.
We later headed back to Arrequipa where we went for a large lunch.  This was probably the biggest portion of pork crackling I have attempted.  The rest of the day was spent suffering for the greediness!!!

Friday 8 October 2010

27th September - On the road or in the air is that!!

Flew from Cuzco to Arrequipa.
The flight was more like a bus jouney landing at 2 stops dropping off and picking up new passengers on route.
Arrequipa is the white city (because it was largely a Spanish population initially) and had a quick explore of the city to see the Cathedral and sites, and then for dinner and cocktails - woop woop!!

26th Sept - Machu Pichu

Up at 4am and breakfast by 5 for Machu Pichu.  Saw the rest of the Lares Tek guys in the queue including Petey, Doris, Leo, Claire and Emma.  Got in nice and early at MP for the best photos and yes I took about 5000 of the classic shot, and some stupid ones.
Explored the city apparently there was about 800-1000 people living there when it was active and there is no explanation why it was abaondoned (only theories).  It would also have been expanded further if they had not left the site.  Went the sun gate to get another view and that was impressive.
The whole scale of MP is impressive but perhaps the locations and geography are more so, as it is in such an inaccessible site.
Train back to Cuzco and went out with some of the guys from the Lares andhad a big night out till the early hours.  Cuzco really is a good party town!!

24th Sept - Lares trek day 2

Glorious morning meant we sat out for breakfast eating porridge and omlette.  Really enjoying camping and love the outdoors.  Even more fun at altitude - perhaps the wet camping crew should try it out some time. LOL.
We moved on and visited a small village who make a living on subsistance farming (over 4000 potatoe types in Peru) and herding Llama and Alpacka (which are from the camel family).  The hut in which they lived was stone and had a thatched roof.  I also got to play with some guinea pigs (poor things) who are a food for the locals.
The next xtep was the highpoint of the trek - sorry.  A hike up to 4600m.  I managed to show everyone a clean set of heels and hit the summit just behind the guide (training in the lakes was a really good idea).  The views were fantastic and we all had a sip of whiskey to celebrate.  We trekked down into the valley below for a good rest overnight and a couple of sly snickers bars (wow - what have my Friday nights become)

23rd September - Lares trek

Up and out for 5 am this morning for the start of the Lares trek.  This was an alternative to the Inca trek because there were not enough permits.  Steve got the golden ticket for the Inca trail but Lucy, Andrea and I are all on the Lares.  The Lares apparently is more of a challenge and goes to a higher altitude (I say apparently though as Inca trail has more stone steps).
The bus joureny to the strat was a challenge with logs being placed across soem roadworks to get the bus across, I thought we were going to see the bus stuck in a hole at one point.  Then alighting the bus as we crossed some dodgy landslide on a cliff edge - fun times ahead.
The first incline was meant to be hell but seemed to be OK.  The altitude didnt effect me as I had shoved 50 odd cocoa leaves in my mouth to avoid any effects.
After lunch I had the bit between my teeth and walked into camp first and before the guide and the rest of the group, and well ahead of schedule and the Austrians (Danger Doris and Leo).
Overnight was really cold (below freezing) and it is rare for me to feel that, especially with some thermals on.... bbbbbrrrrrr

22nd September Cuzco (yes still here)

Saw Paul yesterday, he was struck down by the belly bug and had to see the doctor.  It also stopped him from starting his walk to Machu Pichu.  Thankfully I am on the mend now.
Went on a city tour, and started to see evidence of the protests, apparently there has been a lot of trouble.  We had to set off early as protestors were going to be out to play later.  As we drove out towards the Inca ruins we saw were there had been barricades on the roads, and also scorch marks were they had set fire to the road.  Apparently they are trying to disrupt the tourists at the airport and railway.  Shyri said that a firebomb had been thrown at a tour bus recently!!
We went to see an Inca burial site and a sacrificial table at another Inca ruin.  The highlight was Saqsaywaman (OK I cant help sniggering and saying Sexy Woman) which was an impressive Inca temple, partly destroyed by the Spanish.  The Spanish tried to destroy the Inca culture by destroying a lot of these sites and also putting crosses on top of mountains.  We also found an Inca slide which we all enjoyed having a go on and clattering into stones at the bottom.  I was worried I might squash poor Andrea when we went down the slide together!!  She didnt seem too bothered thankfully.
We were back in Cuzco by 10am (tour started at 6am) and had my staple diet of chicken sandwich which has been a saviour whilst on the cocktail of drugs given by the quack.  Although I am getting very envious of the others eating nice pastries with apple etc.
Down town we missed all the fun with helicopters and tear gas as the protesters started their party in the afternoon.  Sounds like a party night tonight!!!

20th September Cuzco - The Bolivian Belly strikes back!!

Was up over ten times in the night.  Belly really has struck back with avengence.  Called the Quack in the morning and he was out in 20 minutes (hell might just get travel insurance at home and get a quck on call rather than through the NHS).  Might just be food poisoning but with the treck and Machu Pichu coming up want to make sure I am ok.  The quack said everything was OK apart from belly, and drugs were dropped off 20 mins after his visit (cant fault the service).
Rest of the day was spent getting a guided tour of the USA courtesy of the CSI teams on Warner Bros TV.

19th September Cuzco

Room mate Steve left for the jungle this morning!!!  Hope he gets there as there are concerns over the transport due to protests at the airport.
Explored Cuzco main square and Cathedrals etc, and went for a small walk with Lucy up to a small church overlooking the town.  Impressive view of the square aswell.
Met Paul, Siemen and Julius for dinner, and it was reall good to catch up as not seen them for a while now.  They were in good spirits and enjoying their hostel - they must have been as Paul was half cut when he met us.  Although it might have had something to do with the strange tea bag thing he was chewing a gift from some Swedish girls!!!
The meal was poor though as we had to wait for ages and didn´t seem to be the best.  Rather non-plussed so they didnt get a tip.

Sunday 19 September 2010

18th September - Puno to Cuzco

Not much to report  today apart from 6 hour coach journey, stopping off at 4000m above sea level!!!!  Watched shutter island on the coach.  Complimented about my t-shirt.

Cuzco is a beautiful city with a fantastic square and cathedral.  Went for a bite to eat in a rather chilled resteraunt owned by a Preuvian and his Ozzie girlfriend.  Andrea had a shot of something pretty stong and we were all worried we would be carrying her back.

Steve is off to the jungle tomorrow, so I have a room to myself.  How exciting!!!!! OK probably going to be bored stiff. LOL.

Paul, Julius and Sieman are in Cuzco tomorrow so going to catch up, and beers will probably be involved.  There are also some others from the Brazil trip knocking round so reckon it will turn into a big one.

17th September - Lake Titikaka and home to Puno

Left the family after a traditional breakfast of pancakes!!!!!!

Boated to a neighbouring island where we were set to hike the island - we had hiked the summit of the other island and at the altitude it is good traing for Machu Pichu.  Had a lunch of trout from the lake and it is some of the best fish I have had in a long time.  Including Pedros in Lanzarote....

Apparently the island had lots of handicrafts and as I have seen lots over the last couple of weeks I reckon I will have a PHD in woolen gods shortly.

Boat back to Puno took 3 hours and the Bolivian Belly has still been lingering a little and so it was not the most comfortable.  On land Shyri advised she had salmonella but was now being treated.

Out for a meal in the evening and had Alpaca steak.

16th September - Lake Titikaka

Went on a boat to the floating islands on the Lake.  The boat seemed normal till I sat next to the captain.  He navigates using a gearbox, and streeing wheel from a Toyota Corrolla, and also has a casio watch glued to the dash.  I felt more at ease on te floating islands made from reeds, which I also sampled - eat your house sounds like a fairy tale!!! The natives fish and trade the fish for goods, and food types that are not available from the lake.
Shyri went back and told us that the family on the Island would look after us.  She has not been well since Bolivia, and sounds like the sniper got her better than he got me.
The home stay was good with some traditional food for lunch and tea, on the island of Amantani.  The family were delighted with our gifts - vegtable and fruits.  Might try that at Xmas, just wonder what everyone in blighty would make of me!!!
In the evening we got dressed up in local dress and went for a dance.  We really went for it and showed the locals how to do it for all of 30 minutes and then the altitude hit an everyone started wondering back to their local home for the night.
Steve reckoned that the bedding was so heavy he would need a crane to lift it in the morning.

15th September - La Paz to Puno

Long journey by coach.  Been reliably informed Peruvian food hygeine is much better.  Just want to make it clear we think the food poisoning took place in Uyuni and not at Olivers in LaPaz, who seemed to have everything in order.

Apparently Julius was taken out by the belly sniper on the death road and kept stopping every 10 minutes to unload the Bolivian Cuisine extras.

Crossed the border into Peru.  The collection of stamps is building, and they are stticking them on consecutive pages!!!

Not much to Puno.  Andrea and I went for a wonder and saw an arch - which wasnt too impressive, a fountain with no coins in.  We decided to do our best efforts to poison the water by tossing in some Bolivians.  We then wondered to the edge of the lake - Titikaka.  We got a tuktuk back and laughed all the way, as it was such an unusual thing.  It was also comical as we wanted a tuktuk with batman on the back.  It seems funny everytime Andrea says Batman as she is German and the accent makes it sound like she is singing the song from the 60s Batman show.

Tomorrow is home stay with a local family - should be interesting.

14th September - La Paz

A long night last night.  The Bolivian Belly Sniper struck and I was stuck on the loo most of the night.  I am gutted as mountain biking down the death road is a no go.

Paul my room mate left the tour today.  Funnily I have a new room mate who started today, a chap caled Steve.  Nice guy but weird that me and Paul had gotten chatting to him on the coach from Uyuni to LaPaz.  It really is a small world!!!

Andrea managed to get me my death road t-shirt.  Probably the only time I will spend 100 dollars on a tshirt!

New tour leader is Shyri, first girl in control.  We agreed to give a collection to Jenny and Denny who had had their camera stolen in Uyuni and advised JJ that this was his tip but it would be a nice gesture - to which he agreed.  Off to Peru tomorrow and hopefully leave the Bolivian Belly behind.

13th September - La Paz

Arrived early in La Paz.  The highest city in the world.  Apparently they play all the matches for the Bolivian side here and due to the altitude the other sides get a hiding!! Brazil got spanked 5-0 last time out.

I went to the Tiwanaku ruins with Andrea, Denny and Jenny.  This was amazing and the stones were cut more accurately than with using laser technology.  They also had statues and faces painted which were clearly not from South American continent.  This suggested that they were travelling continents before Europeans arrived.

A sad day as it was our last day as a group, although we are getting a new guide - woo hoo.  We went for a meal at Olivers Pub - officially the 5th best bar in La Paz no less.  I had a beef curry, others had some nice English nosh, and Irena was talking to the big man on the white telephone.  Funnily enough Sieman had not been right all day either.  We gave him some immodium to help him out.  On the route home Sieman decided to return the immodium to the pavement.  Iam sure the locals must have thought we were drunks.

We are booked to do the death road tomorrow.  I am really excited but a little nervous too.... It is the road with the highest number of fatalities or at least it used to be until someone realised sticking a road on the edge of a cliff without enough space for two prams to pass was not a particularly safe idea.

12th September - Hot Spa and back to Mos Eisley

We got up and left the hotel at 5am.  It was freezing at the geezers and so after some quick photos and couple of rapid exchanges we were back in the 4x4s heading for the hot spa.  We were the foirst to arrive and the sun was only just coming up.  It was just over -1 but the hot spa was 27 to 22, and so Paul, Julius, Siemen and I were the first to jump in, followed by Andrea.  It was fantastic and I didnt want to get out.
There was a bit of an exchnage over breakfast.  JJ said that he didnt sleep because we were all snoring.  I politely informed him that I wanted to book in next to Le Paz airport tonight for a better night sleep and that left the table sniggering and JJ rather red faced. LOL.  The Norwegians then confirmed that we didnt have issue with each other but JJ was the snoring culprit.  He really isnt impressing as a guide at the mo.

We headed back to Uyuni after breakfast and some of went to watch a local football match.  The local side were giving the opposition a good hiding.  The crowd were really quiet - mind they were probably all depressed iving in Uyuni where the highlight is the train graveyard just outside the town.  OK I negleted to mention that before and there was a lot of fun photos taken there, but not too sure if I would want it on my doorstep.

Off on the local bus to Le Paz tonight.  It was a coach and we manged to get the driver to drift the coach sideways a couple of times.  I closed my eyes, kissed my ass goodbye and started praying after peering out at the road in front as the driver on sand decided to overtake a HGV that looked unstable.

11th September - The Red Desert

Didnt sleep well last night as JJ was snoring.  Sounded like a Jumbo Jet coming into land every couple of miuntes interspaced with an attempt to strangle himself.  Think JJ might want to do something about it if he meets someone.
We saw someone amazing sites today.  Lakes with Pink flamingos in them.  A red desert full or iron, and a red lagoon.  The lagoon had algae on the top but due to the low temperature and wind it makes it turn red.  The weather at the moment is cold and when we set off this morning it was -5.  Climbed up some rock formations for some good photos with Irena, Paul, and Andrea.
We stayed in another sparse hotel.  The electricity went off at 10.30.
Irena was a hero as she tried to convince JJ not to room with us, but to no avail.  He snored again straight through. Despite me kicking his bed, Julius hitting him with a pillow, and generally us shouting lots he slept through.  As a tour guide not too sure about JJ - not just with the snoring. He bangs on about everything that is crap in his life, and you have to really push him to tell you about the locations.  Hoping he is not the benchmark.  He also said he had had a complaint against him when we first set out.  Hhhhmmm.
On the positives the group are getting on well and we are having lots of fun when JJ is not about.

10th September Uyuni to Salt flats

We left Uynui and set off for the salt flats.  It was interesting as we are in 4x4s now and thought it will become obvious soon as to why.  We headed for the locoal vilage to get some cheap goods, such as gloves etc.  Really glad I have a shamagh as it is warm when needed, cool when the weather is hot, stops sunburn, and most importantly I look like a terrorist!!
We headed to the salt flats where we found out that the supply of salt was massive - dur! That there was a massive supply of lithium under the flats and that a lot of countries are pushing for the natural resources.  The guide reckons there might be a war over the resouurces in the future! Perhaps I shouldnt wear the shemagh so much around here.
The accomadation was a hotel made from salt - yes salt.  The floor, walls, tables, everything was salt.  We had a clear night outside so some of us went out and watched the stars.  I saw a shooting star which was the first one I have ever seen.  Andrea was miffed as she was the only one who hadnt.
JJ the guide was snoring so loud that we could hear him down the corridor before I got to the room.  I dont think earplugs will be enough to counter this noise.

9th September Potosi to Uyuni

Got up early and went to the mint museum with Paul.  They had an impressive art gallery in the museum, and it was interesting to realise that there was more than just coin making.  They had a lot of impressionist art and also a document declaring the city a world heritage site.  The actual mint museum threw up some interesting facts such as Potosi at one point made the majority of coins in the world, ironicaly Bolivia does not make any of its own coins anymore!!
The journey to Uyuni was on a public bus.  The window next to Paul would not close until Irena gave it a good smash.  It was then shut solid.  The road soon materialised into a track and at one point became more like Formby sand dunes.  Some parts were a bit hairy but not quite the death road - which I hope to do so later.  When we arrived in Uyuni it was like arriving to another world rather similar to Mos Eisley Spaceport in Star Wars.
Paul, Julius, Sieman and I went for a wonder around the local market, where we managed to do a bit of bartering.
Pizza for tea where an American has a resteraunt.  I am really struggling with what the thought process was. I think I will set up a Pizza resteraunt in the middle of nowhere where they dont eat Pizza.  It was busy and cracking pizza so dont think I will go into that industry given my intial thoughts.

Friday 17 September 2010

8th September Potosi

Arrived in the mining town of Potosi.  Used to be the richest city in South America.  Bit run down now.  It also used to mint most of the worlds coins.

Went to the silver mine.  It was amazing but rather sad at the same time as the kids are born into poverty and will just go straight into mining when old enough.  The life expectancy for the miners is about 40 ish.

I bought some dynamite as a gift for one of the miners who showed us round.  He even used it whilst we were there!!! Scary.

Went out for a wonder in the evening and have been told to look out for for the false police who take your passport!!!!

Monday 7th Sept in Sucre

Took a hike in a very large crater today.  Was very impressive although not convinced it was done by a comet.  But who am I to say as not a geologist!!  The new guys are really nice and the hike was with them as the Norwegians, Paul, and Lucy stayed in Sucre.

The highlight was the T rex footprint in the rock!!!  There was also a diplodicus footprint.

The hike was hard work at altitude which is starting to tell.  So there was a solution Cocoa leaves,  Irena, Andrea and I all tried some with an EXTRA additive!!!

Went out till 1 am with Jose and some of his new group!!!  It was a converted knocking shop!! Nice.

Monday 6 September 2010

The end of the journey for some

Well after finishing off at Foz and Iguassu falls we headed to Bonito.  Quite an amazing experience as I managed to snorkel down a crystal clear river where there were fish - they also have some anacondas aswell, but I was 5050 about wanting to meet one of those.  It was an amazing experience getting up close with the fish and some were pretty big.  In the evening I had my first taste of Pirahna soup, and Croc for my mine.  I think I got a taste for it.
Pantanal was the next stop where we stayed on a ranch, went horse riding (yes I was very rusty and saddle sore at the end).  The group share a dorm and slept in hammocks for two nights.  I also went fishing and managed to catch 4 pirahnas - yes you have read that right the ones that eat flesh.  I even mamaged to eat one of the caught Pirahnas which is an amazing experience.The second night we had the second of our fancy dress nights.  The theme was aquatic/marine.  I was dressed as Camp Pirate!!!  The group had plenty to drink but were not as lubricated as last time.  It was a fantastic night with me and Huw being the last stragglers around the camp fire.
Off to Bolivia and Santa Cruz the following.  An overnight train took us on a rickety journey overland to Santa Cruz.  The difference between Bolivia and Brazil is quite obvious and it seems a much poorer country.  It is very interesting to also see the cultural differences.  In Santa Cruz we had a big finale night as some of the group were leaving us.  We went to a club and I managed to find my way on to the pole and showed everyone how it was done. LOL.  The following day we made our tearful goodbyes and seperated.  I am travlling on to Sucre with the crazy Norwegians Julieus, and Simen, my room mate Paul, and Lucy from Leeds.  It was nice as Lucy and Paul are the first people I met in Rio.  The flight into Sucre was a tight turn on to a mountain top so it was interesting, and unbelieably I was not too bad with it.  A couple days in Sucre with some new friends, three Canadians, a German and a new tour guide, JJ.  We are still bumping into our old tour guide Jose and Milton which is also nice as we are having some beers with them later.

Sunday 29 August 2010

Busy week, its a hard life

Well its been a couple of days since the last update....
What have I been up to - well I have been to a couple of places.  We left Rio and headed to Ihla Grande.  It is a small island with some fantastic beaches - absolutely stunning.  We arrived and went for some beer and grub.  The following day we trekked through some jungle and after 2 hours and 3 perfectly acceptable beaches we found one that was amazing.  We continued to sun ourselves and played footy against the brazilians (on sand - love it).
The following day we headed to Paraty.  It is a small village3 and a world heritage site.  We hired a small boat and 5 of us went on a cruise - stopping and swimming in the sea, BBQ and a couple of cold cocktails.  Fantastic.
The last part of the week we have been to Iguassu falls and enjoyed the amazing sites.  A trip up the river and into the falls on a power boat was the highlight.

Anyway gotta scoot - as its busy all this trekking, and generally have a good time.

Sunday 22 August 2010

Saturday night out in Rio

Another adventurous day.  Met some people from the tour in the hotel before the tour kicked off.  Went down Copacobana beach and messed about taking photos of the palace hotel and the muscle beach (yes I did look out of place!!).  Went up Sugar Loaf mountain on the cable car and didnt get vertigo which is a nice rarity for me.  Cracking views of big J and the whole city.  Using public transport at the mo and we could do with revising our prices in line with Brazil.  One pound gets you pretty much anywhere you want.
Met the whole tour group in the evening and went for a buffet meal (meat, meat, meat).  After that some of us went to a Samba Party (crazy), then went to a nightclub after that (bonkers!!), and finally got in at 5.30 am.  Minus the tour guide.  No I didnt go to the Help nightclub - I had been warned.
Recovering with fellow traveller in the internet cafe.  Off to Isla Grande today - woohoo.
PS: Sorry at the mo due to a lack of photos.  Having problems loading them onto the net, should be sorted by next update.

Friday 20 August 2010

They are into big Jesus in Rio


A good flight to Rio and got in about 7 their time but more like 2am UK time so was rather pooped.  Jumped a taxi and haggled the woman at the airport down to about 10 quid.  Could have got the bus but probably would have fallen asleep and ended up in the shanty towns.  I did brave the bus to see the statue of Jesus, and then the train going up to it was fun.  I would say what it was but I cant spell funicular (is that right?).  Been to the Copacabana beach and they they tried to roll me into the sea and pour buckets of water on me!! LOL.  Been taking some snaps and will publish them soon.

Wednesday 18 August 2010

The adventure begins

Well its been a busy last couple of days.  I had my 574th leaving doo, and so thanks for all of those who came along and made a great night.  The rest rest of the time I have been worrying and getting OCD checking passport and currency.  I am sat at the airport now waiting for the flight to Heathrow then off to Rio. Woo-hoo.  Apparently Manchester Airport have managed to get the Airbus A380 here for my leaving. LOL.  Well I would just like to say thanks for all the good wishes everyone has sent.

Friday 13 August 2010

The start

I decided to start with the basics of trying to set up a blog.  A long and complicated process and so I will retire to bed shortly.  I am looking forward to my Formby farewell tomorrow with a couple of chums and hopefully won't get too messy.  Already done the farewell Mark/Ecclesiastical/Liverpool etc so just a couple more farewells then hit the road and off to Brazil, and the rest of the world.  BAA staff are due to strike and so fingers crossed it won't happen till I am on the way (the rabbits foot has no hare on it left).
Note to self when setting up Blog, dont drink beer.