Sunday 19 September 2010

18th September - Puno to Cuzco

Not much to report  today apart from 6 hour coach journey, stopping off at 4000m above sea level!!!!  Watched shutter island on the coach.  Complimented about my t-shirt.

Cuzco is a beautiful city with a fantastic square and cathedral.  Went for a bite to eat in a rather chilled resteraunt owned by a Preuvian and his Ozzie girlfriend.  Andrea had a shot of something pretty stong and we were all worried we would be carrying her back.

Steve is off to the jungle tomorrow, so I have a room to myself.  How exciting!!!!! OK probably going to be bored stiff. LOL.

Paul, Julius and Sieman are in Cuzco tomorrow so going to catch up, and beers will probably be involved.  There are also some others from the Brazil trip knocking round so reckon it will turn into a big one.

17th September - Lake Titikaka and home to Puno

Left the family after a traditional breakfast of pancakes!!!!!!

Boated to a neighbouring island where we were set to hike the island - we had hiked the summit of the other island and at the altitude it is good traing for Machu Pichu.  Had a lunch of trout from the lake and it is some of the best fish I have had in a long time.  Including Pedros in Lanzarote....

Apparently the island had lots of handicrafts and as I have seen lots over the last couple of weeks I reckon I will have a PHD in woolen gods shortly.

Boat back to Puno took 3 hours and the Bolivian Belly has still been lingering a little and so it was not the most comfortable.  On land Shyri advised she had salmonella but was now being treated.

Out for a meal in the evening and had Alpaca steak.

16th September - Lake Titikaka

Went on a boat to the floating islands on the Lake.  The boat seemed normal till I sat next to the captain.  He navigates using a gearbox, and streeing wheel from a Toyota Corrolla, and also has a casio watch glued to the dash.  I felt more at ease on te floating islands made from reeds, which I also sampled - eat your house sounds like a fairy tale!!! The natives fish and trade the fish for goods, and food types that are not available from the lake.
Shyri went back and told us that the family on the Island would look after us.  She has not been well since Bolivia, and sounds like the sniper got her better than he got me.
The home stay was good with some traditional food for lunch and tea, on the island of Amantani.  The family were delighted with our gifts - vegtable and fruits.  Might try that at Xmas, just wonder what everyone in blighty would make of me!!!
In the evening we got dressed up in local dress and went for a dance.  We really went for it and showed the locals how to do it for all of 30 minutes and then the altitude hit an everyone started wondering back to their local home for the night.
Steve reckoned that the bedding was so heavy he would need a crane to lift it in the morning.

15th September - La Paz to Puno

Long journey by coach.  Been reliably informed Peruvian food hygeine is much better.  Just want to make it clear we think the food poisoning took place in Uyuni and not at Olivers in LaPaz, who seemed to have everything in order.

Apparently Julius was taken out by the belly sniper on the death road and kept stopping every 10 minutes to unload the Bolivian Cuisine extras.

Crossed the border into Peru.  The collection of stamps is building, and they are stticking them on consecutive pages!!!

Not much to Puno.  Andrea and I went for a wonder and saw an arch - which wasnt too impressive, a fountain with no coins in.  We decided to do our best efforts to poison the water by tossing in some Bolivians.  We then wondered to the edge of the lake - Titikaka.  We got a tuktuk back and laughed all the way, as it was such an unusual thing.  It was also comical as we wanted a tuktuk with batman on the back.  It seems funny everytime Andrea says Batman as she is German and the accent makes it sound like she is singing the song from the 60s Batman show.

Tomorrow is home stay with a local family - should be interesting.

14th September - La Paz

A long night last night.  The Bolivian Belly Sniper struck and I was stuck on the loo most of the night.  I am gutted as mountain biking down the death road is a no go.

Paul my room mate left the tour today.  Funnily I have a new room mate who started today, a chap caled Steve.  Nice guy but weird that me and Paul had gotten chatting to him on the coach from Uyuni to LaPaz.  It really is a small world!!!

Andrea managed to get me my death road t-shirt.  Probably the only time I will spend 100 dollars on a tshirt!

New tour leader is Shyri, first girl in control.  We agreed to give a collection to Jenny and Denny who had had their camera stolen in Uyuni and advised JJ that this was his tip but it would be a nice gesture - to which he agreed.  Off to Peru tomorrow and hopefully leave the Bolivian Belly behind.

13th September - La Paz

Arrived early in La Paz.  The highest city in the world.  Apparently they play all the matches for the Bolivian side here and due to the altitude the other sides get a hiding!! Brazil got spanked 5-0 last time out.

I went to the Tiwanaku ruins with Andrea, Denny and Jenny.  This was amazing and the stones were cut more accurately than with using laser technology.  They also had statues and faces painted which were clearly not from South American continent.  This suggested that they were travelling continents before Europeans arrived.

A sad day as it was our last day as a group, although we are getting a new guide - woo hoo.  We went for a meal at Olivers Pub - officially the 5th best bar in La Paz no less.  I had a beef curry, others had some nice English nosh, and Irena was talking to the big man on the white telephone.  Funnily enough Sieman had not been right all day either.  We gave him some immodium to help him out.  On the route home Sieman decided to return the immodium to the pavement.  Iam sure the locals must have thought we were drunks.

We are booked to do the death road tomorrow.  I am really excited but a little nervous too.... It is the road with the highest number of fatalities or at least it used to be until someone realised sticking a road on the edge of a cliff without enough space for two prams to pass was not a particularly safe idea.

12th September - Hot Spa and back to Mos Eisley

We got up and left the hotel at 5am.  It was freezing at the geezers and so after some quick photos and couple of rapid exchanges we were back in the 4x4s heading for the hot spa.  We were the foirst to arrive and the sun was only just coming up.  It was just over -1 but the hot spa was 27 to 22, and so Paul, Julius, Siemen and I were the first to jump in, followed by Andrea.  It was fantastic and I didnt want to get out.
There was a bit of an exchnage over breakfast.  JJ said that he didnt sleep because we were all snoring.  I politely informed him that I wanted to book in next to Le Paz airport tonight for a better night sleep and that left the table sniggering and JJ rather red faced. LOL.  The Norwegians then confirmed that we didnt have issue with each other but JJ was the snoring culprit.  He really isnt impressing as a guide at the mo.

We headed back to Uyuni after breakfast and some of went to watch a local football match.  The local side were giving the opposition a good hiding.  The crowd were really quiet - mind they were probably all depressed iving in Uyuni where the highlight is the train graveyard just outside the town.  OK I negleted to mention that before and there was a lot of fun photos taken there, but not too sure if I would want it on my doorstep.

Off on the local bus to Le Paz tonight.  It was a coach and we manged to get the driver to drift the coach sideways a couple of times.  I closed my eyes, kissed my ass goodbye and started praying after peering out at the road in front as the driver on sand decided to overtake a HGV that looked unstable.

11th September - The Red Desert

Didnt sleep well last night as JJ was snoring.  Sounded like a Jumbo Jet coming into land every couple of miuntes interspaced with an attempt to strangle himself.  Think JJ might want to do something about it if he meets someone.
We saw someone amazing sites today.  Lakes with Pink flamingos in them.  A red desert full or iron, and a red lagoon.  The lagoon had algae on the top but due to the low temperature and wind it makes it turn red.  The weather at the moment is cold and when we set off this morning it was -5.  Climbed up some rock formations for some good photos with Irena, Paul, and Andrea.
We stayed in another sparse hotel.  The electricity went off at 10.30.
Irena was a hero as she tried to convince JJ not to room with us, but to no avail.  He snored again straight through. Despite me kicking his bed, Julius hitting him with a pillow, and generally us shouting lots he slept through.  As a tour guide not too sure about JJ - not just with the snoring. He bangs on about everything that is crap in his life, and you have to really push him to tell you about the locations.  Hoping he is not the benchmark.  He also said he had had a complaint against him when we first set out.  Hhhhmmm.
On the positives the group are getting on well and we are having lots of fun when JJ is not about.

10th September Uyuni to Salt flats

We left Uynui and set off for the salt flats.  It was interesting as we are in 4x4s now and thought it will become obvious soon as to why.  We headed for the locoal vilage to get some cheap goods, such as gloves etc.  Really glad I have a shamagh as it is warm when needed, cool when the weather is hot, stops sunburn, and most importantly I look like a terrorist!!
We headed to the salt flats where we found out that the supply of salt was massive - dur! That there was a massive supply of lithium under the flats and that a lot of countries are pushing for the natural resources.  The guide reckons there might be a war over the resouurces in the future! Perhaps I shouldnt wear the shemagh so much around here.
The accomadation was a hotel made from salt - yes salt.  The floor, walls, tables, everything was salt.  We had a clear night outside so some of us went out and watched the stars.  I saw a shooting star which was the first one I have ever seen.  Andrea was miffed as she was the only one who hadnt.
JJ the guide was snoring so loud that we could hear him down the corridor before I got to the room.  I dont think earplugs will be enough to counter this noise.

9th September Potosi to Uyuni

Got up early and went to the mint museum with Paul.  They had an impressive art gallery in the museum, and it was interesting to realise that there was more than just coin making.  They had a lot of impressionist art and also a document declaring the city a world heritage site.  The actual mint museum threw up some interesting facts such as Potosi at one point made the majority of coins in the world, ironicaly Bolivia does not make any of its own coins anymore!!
The journey to Uyuni was on a public bus.  The window next to Paul would not close until Irena gave it a good smash.  It was then shut solid.  The road soon materialised into a track and at one point became more like Formby sand dunes.  Some parts were a bit hairy but not quite the death road - which I hope to do so later.  When we arrived in Uyuni it was like arriving to another world rather similar to Mos Eisley Spaceport in Star Wars.
Paul, Julius, Sieman and I went for a wonder around the local market, where we managed to do a bit of bartering.
Pizza for tea where an American has a resteraunt.  I am really struggling with what the thought process was. I think I will set up a Pizza resteraunt in the middle of nowhere where they dont eat Pizza.  It was busy and cracking pizza so dont think I will go into that industry given my intial thoughts.

Friday 17 September 2010

8th September Potosi

Arrived in the mining town of Potosi.  Used to be the richest city in South America.  Bit run down now.  It also used to mint most of the worlds coins.

Went to the silver mine.  It was amazing but rather sad at the same time as the kids are born into poverty and will just go straight into mining when old enough.  The life expectancy for the miners is about 40 ish.

I bought some dynamite as a gift for one of the miners who showed us round.  He even used it whilst we were there!!! Scary.

Went out for a wonder in the evening and have been told to look out for for the false police who take your passport!!!!

Monday 7th Sept in Sucre

Took a hike in a very large crater today.  Was very impressive although not convinced it was done by a comet.  But who am I to say as not a geologist!!  The new guys are really nice and the hike was with them as the Norwegians, Paul, and Lucy stayed in Sucre.

The highlight was the T rex footprint in the rock!!!  There was also a diplodicus footprint.

The hike was hard work at altitude which is starting to tell.  So there was a solution Cocoa leaves,  Irena, Andrea and I all tried some with an EXTRA additive!!!

Went out till 1 am with Jose and some of his new group!!!  It was a converted knocking shop!! Nice.

Monday 6 September 2010

The end of the journey for some

Well after finishing off at Foz and Iguassu falls we headed to Bonito.  Quite an amazing experience as I managed to snorkel down a crystal clear river where there were fish - they also have some anacondas aswell, but I was 5050 about wanting to meet one of those.  It was an amazing experience getting up close with the fish and some were pretty big.  In the evening I had my first taste of Pirahna soup, and Croc for my mine.  I think I got a taste for it.
Pantanal was the next stop where we stayed on a ranch, went horse riding (yes I was very rusty and saddle sore at the end).  The group share a dorm and slept in hammocks for two nights.  I also went fishing and managed to catch 4 pirahnas - yes you have read that right the ones that eat flesh.  I even mamaged to eat one of the caught Pirahnas which is an amazing experience.The second night we had the second of our fancy dress nights.  The theme was aquatic/marine.  I was dressed as Camp Pirate!!!  The group had plenty to drink but were not as lubricated as last time.  It was a fantastic night with me and Huw being the last stragglers around the camp fire.
Off to Bolivia and Santa Cruz the following.  An overnight train took us on a rickety journey overland to Santa Cruz.  The difference between Bolivia and Brazil is quite obvious and it seems a much poorer country.  It is very interesting to also see the cultural differences.  In Santa Cruz we had a big finale night as some of the group were leaving us.  We went to a club and I managed to find my way on to the pole and showed everyone how it was done. LOL.  The following day we made our tearful goodbyes and seperated.  I am travlling on to Sucre with the crazy Norwegians Julieus, and Simen, my room mate Paul, and Lucy from Leeds.  It was nice as Lucy and Paul are the first people I met in Rio.  The flight into Sucre was a tight turn on to a mountain top so it was interesting, and unbelieably I was not too bad with it.  A couple days in Sucre with some new friends, three Canadians, a German and a new tour guide, JJ.  We are still bumping into our old tour guide Jose and Milton which is also nice as we are having some beers with them later.