Saturday 23 October 2010

12th, 13th and 14th October - Darwin

I arrived in Sydney after leaving BA.  The flight went down the east coast of Argentina and across the south pole.  Over the sheets of ice and all... A quick overnight stop in Sydney where it managed to rain constantly and then head to Darwin where apparently the rainy season has kicked in early!!
Arriving in Darwin there were clear sky and beatiful warm trpoical weather.  Darwin is the only city in Oz to have a true tropical climate and it was making itself well known to me, and me and the shower and swimming pool were becoming best mates!
Darwin has had some real hard times in the recent past.  In WW2 they were hit by a Japanese attack where more bombs were dropped than on pearl harbour.  This was actually kept quiet from the Australian public so as to not damage morale.  The port had been caught by suprise and only 12 US fighters had been in the air to fight off an attacking force of over 500 planes.  This led to over 200 lives being lost (although it is contested as to whether this was greater.  The port was interesting and it was good to get into the shade of some massive oil tanks that had been built underground in the war.  They were an impressive peice of engineering ( http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Oceania/Australia/West/Northern_Territory/Darwin/photo1087951.htm).
The other major event in Darwin history was that of Cyclone Tracy an unwanted Xmas visitor turning up on Xmas Eve 1974.  This killed 71 people and left just 400 of the 11200 houses standing.
Whilst in Darwin I also did some familiar tourist spots.  One was Fannie Bay Gaol.  This was a jail that had been built in 1883, and had been largely an open prison with inmates washing themselves in the sea on the beach outside, and disposing of the nights waste buckets at the same time.  Begs the question what was the point in bathing there!!!  However it couldn't be that bad as sometimes there were more inmates than they had on the roll call.
Andrea my new Italian mate gave me a lift to the Aviation Museum where I was able to feel rather small against the B52 bomber which managed to have half the exhibits under its wings http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.nachohat.org/top_end_2001/PIC00030.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.nachohat.org/top_end_2001/darwin_air.html&usg=__S5hgC45jk7oFKh-CTIlmvY5QTIA=&h=600&w=800&sz=83&hl=en&start=7&sig2=cJIZv8MEOh8htp3oQMuOzA&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=3cJwYtfxba0W_M:&tbnh=107&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Db52%2Bbomber%2Bdarwin%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-au%26tbs%3Disch:1&ei=Br7DTOToA8ikcYugnIsN!! There were some other good exhibits in there including a mirage and Japanese Zero (or the remains of it).
At the Crocosaurus Cove I managed to see some of the largest saltwater crocs and they impressed (and scared most people) at feeding time.  I was lucky enough to feed some smaller crocs and don't worry I still have all my limbs and used a fishing line rather hand handing it to them.  I also handled a small Croc and was fortunate that it decided to soil itself on the next person rather than me!!
I have booked a trip into the Kimberleys for 10days - so I will be signing off and resorting to smoke signals for the foreseeable future.  Heres is to hoping I sleep under the stars without being biten by snakes, spiders, scorpions or eaten by a croc!!

6-9th October Buenos Aires

Arrived in BA early from the flight and the hotel were good enough to let me have the room early and so get my head down to rest for a bit.
Once recovered I ventured out and over the next couple of days went to see some of the sights.  First on the list was to turn left and head to see the main government/parliament building.  This was strange as it has been heavily influenced by the US congress building and so looked very very similar.  I  reckon the US might have just dropped the plans off with them.  I wondered down the other end of the road (Plaza DeMayo) to check out the the Cathedral.  This didnt come across as a usual Cathedral (ie: architecture weas not in the usual style) as it looked more like a Roman Temple with pillars at the front.  Inside the remains of the General who achieved independence from Spain are kept guard by two soldiers in smart dress.  Across the square is the Casa Rosada which is a pink building made famous by Evita shouting down from it (the scene Dont cry for me Argentina in the film Evita).  Perhaps the interesting thing about the building is that the colour pink was obtained by a mix of Ox blood and white wash.... 
There were a couple of othere sites of note.  The Cemenerio De La Recoleta, which is the final resting place for Eva Peron (Evita) amongst many other famous Argentinians.  Around the corner from there was a converted El Ateneo Grand Splendid ( http://argentinastravel.com/268/el-ateneo-in-buenos-aires-a-bookstore-to-end-all-bookstores/ ) which is a converted theatre.  I spent a while in there sipping a nice coffee and feeding my addiction to sweet croissants that the Argentinians seem to produce at every opportunity!!
The Cabildo De Buenos Aires was the seat of the Spanish controlled government until 1821 and was a wide front building until they decided to fit some roads around it and knocked 11 arches off the edges of the building.  Think the independence might have been going to their heads as it looks bit wonky now.
On my travels in BA I was asked if I was Italian 3 times - not sure whats going on there??? I also met a Boltonian who lived in Amsterdam for 20 years and had a distinctly weird accent.
I was sad as  I left for the airport as it was the first leg of the trip over and heading to Oz, it was the start of a new adventure, and a long trip to Darwin, via Sydney!!!

Monday 11 October 2010

4th, and 5th October - Lima

It was the last day of the 4 of us together so we got together early and Lucy was the guide for the day.  We went to the central part of Lima so as to see many of the old sites and I could go to my $14 hotel.  Yes $14 for a room in the Gran Bolivar hotel in Lima.
We set off and headed into the old square where the cathedral, and old government building was.  We got some nice photos and I was shocked when Andrea and Lucy took photos of the fountain in the centre.  We then headed for a coffee in one of the oldest saloons in Lima.  We ordered coffee with milk, and got milk with a splash of coffee.  I dont think any of us finished the drinks and then took some photos of the old saloon - tried to work out how on earth they had been going so long making such bad coffee.  OK we have been reared on Starbucks and so probably don't have a clue what the hell a good coffee is but not sure about loading it with condensed milk!!!
We headed off to the catacombs and had a guided (if rather fast) tour.  It was fascinating to think that they buried so many bodies underneath the church, and they were connected underground to other churches.  The bones are no longer as they were originally as when investigations were made to count the bodies the bones were separated (skulls together etc) so as to ascertain the corect numbers of bodies.
We then went to see the changing of the guard and whilst impressive there are still things we do well in our country and think we can claim the title for than one.  Also not wholly convinced when the band started playing the Rocky theme as the soldiers parted ways!!  Just to make things more strange we bumped into some of the Tucan group again.
Went for lunch in China town and then said my goodbyes to the guys and a big hug for Andrea as she was leaving tonight.  I headed back to my hotel.  The hotel had been the favourite haunt of Hemmingway in his day, and also has a Ford Model T in the reception.  The room was first rate and very impressive with a lot of art deco to spice things up.
The following day I met with Steve and Lucy and we explored Lima seeing the sights and going to do some retail therapy.  Steve kicked my ass at ten pin bowling as Lucy went to get her haircut - yes we were doing the cultural thing on track.  Keeping the theme going we went for burgers at lunch.  Steve and I had Bembo burgers (Peru answer to McDonalds), and Lucy picked a burger king.  Lucy manged to win the best burger contest, and I vowed not to argue with the Americans about burgers again.
In the afternoon we said our goodbyes and headed our different ways - Steve back to Britain and Lucy tearing her way back across South America through Chile and off to Buenos Aires.  I was really sad to see them as I drove off in the taxi as I had some great experiences with them, and Lucy had been following me around since Rio (almost 2 months!!!).  I headed to the airport for an overnight flight to Buenos Aires!

3rd October - Pisco to Lima

Went for a boat ride out to the Ballestas islands to see the wildlife.  Andrea and Steve joined me and we hit the sea in a speed boat heading out to the remote Ballestas islands which are uninhabited apart from the bird, which include pelicans, penguins and sea lions.  We had a fun time as the birds decided to pass on some good luck to some of us on the boat (glad I brought some tissues).  It was quite impressive and more the remarkable that once every 4 years they collect the bird droppings for fertilizer. Nice!!
When we got back Lucy told us that a plane had crashed down in Nazca killing the crew and tourists on board.  There were 4 Brits on boards and the Peruvian pilot and co-pilot.  It was on the same day that Andrea and I had gone up but later on in the day.  We had been told that going up was a bit scary and that there was best times to go up, between 11-1, and this plane had come down at 5 in afternoon.  It was quite a sobering moment as I had a lot of worries before going up.
To make things a little bit more concerning apparently there was a tremor in Pisco last night - I managed to sleep through it, but I think some others might have felt it.
Got to Lima for our last night together and rather sad as I am going to miss Steve, Lucy and Andrea as we have become good friends travelling together.

2nd Sept Nazca to Pisco - fun in the sand

Today we travelled to Pisco.  However this was not just a road trip day.
We stopped at an Oasis.  Yes quite literally a water hole in the middle of sand dunes.  We jumed a dune buggy and all hell broke loose.  The driver raced over huge drops and we screamed for our lives.  The sand dunes were huge (Formby doesnt touch these things!!).  We then jumped off the buggy and onto some boards and slid head first down the sand dunes.  What an adrenaline rush!!!  Steve, Andrea, Lucy and I were all buzzing by the time we came down from the dunes for a spot of lunch.
We headed to Pisco after lunch (still pumped with adrenaline), and the wineyards where they showed us how they made Pisco (and yes there was samples consumed).
Pisco was our overnight stay and we could see the devastation of the 2007 earthquake, which was still apparent in the city.  They have a lot of social problems with crime and such due to the poverty created by the earthquake, so we stayed around the hotel for most of the evening.

31st September Nazca

Yesterday was meant to be spent enjoying the sites of Arrequipa, however I was still suffering from the pork crackling the day before.  We travelled overnigh by coach and arrived in Nazca.
Nazca is one of the highlights for me as I have always wanted to see the Nazca lines and have been fascinated by them for such a long time.
Funnily the Tucans are here - not the birds but the other tour group who seem to appear nearly everywhere we go!!
We did a tour of the ancient burial sites where a lot of damage has been done by the grave robbers and many of the bones still lie on the surface beacause of this now.  The preserved mummies were very impressive though.  After the burial site we headed to a workshop where they showed us how they made the ceramics during the times of the Nazcas.
Then the big one.  Andrea and I were crazy enough to get into a small plane to fly over the Nazca lines.  Everyone on the trip so far had said that they struggled to hold onto stomach during the flight and stomach certainly registered a couple of complaints during the flight.  The flight was bumpy and plenty of turbulence added to the cocktail.  However the lines were amazing and despite losing my lunch would not have changed it.  The lines are drawn in the desert and can only be observed from a great height (by plane or such).  It is unkown how they lines were drawn and why?? Not too sure if Erik Von Danikens theories about UFO landing sites is true though.  They are probably on par with Machu Pichu for the highlights so far.

28th-29th Colca Canyon

Set off early (again) to get to the Colca Canyon.  This is the deepest Canyon in world and one of the surrounding mountains also is the starting point for the Amazon river (making that the longest).  The journey was a 5hour drive along some cliff faces and across some wide open spaces (couldnt vary much more).  Lunch on the first day was a buffet lunch - it was quite memerable as Shyri told us about some fat Americans, as they had spent 5 hours at the same lunch sitting and it was only meant to be just over an hour!! The smae people did the Inca trail not long ago.  The second day in on the trail the fat Americans refused to walk any further and had to be carried by the Sherpas to Machu Pichu and they still said they did the Inca Trail!!!
Anyway funny stories aside the first of the Canyon was quite impressive, and the sides had been cultivated by pre-Inca civilisations into terraces which they farmed.  The Spanish destroyed many of these terraces when they invaded.  Afternoon was spent in a spa with a nice temperature in region of 38degree, and some cocktails at the side.
The next day we headed to the deepest point of the Canyon and walked along the side (scary!!!).  We took some photos and then waited round for the condors to appear.  They duly obliged although proved very elusive when trying to get photos.
We later headed back to Arrequipa where we went for a large lunch.  This was probably the biggest portion of pork crackling I have attempted.  The rest of the day was spent suffering for the greediness!!!

Friday 8 October 2010

27th September - On the road or in the air is that!!

Flew from Cuzco to Arrequipa.
The flight was more like a bus jouney landing at 2 stops dropping off and picking up new passengers on route.
Arrequipa is the white city (because it was largely a Spanish population initially) and had a quick explore of the city to see the Cathedral and sites, and then for dinner and cocktails - woop woop!!

26th Sept - Machu Pichu

Up at 4am and breakfast by 5 for Machu Pichu.  Saw the rest of the Lares Tek guys in the queue including Petey, Doris, Leo, Claire and Emma.  Got in nice and early at MP for the best photos and yes I took about 5000 of the classic shot, and some stupid ones.
Explored the city apparently there was about 800-1000 people living there when it was active and there is no explanation why it was abaondoned (only theories).  It would also have been expanded further if they had not left the site.  Went the sun gate to get another view and that was impressive.
The whole scale of MP is impressive but perhaps the locations and geography are more so, as it is in such an inaccessible site.
Train back to Cuzco and went out with some of the guys from the Lares andhad a big night out till the early hours.  Cuzco really is a good party town!!

24th Sept - Lares trek day 2

Glorious morning meant we sat out for breakfast eating porridge and omlette.  Really enjoying camping and love the outdoors.  Even more fun at altitude - perhaps the wet camping crew should try it out some time. LOL.
We moved on and visited a small village who make a living on subsistance farming (over 4000 potatoe types in Peru) and herding Llama and Alpacka (which are from the camel family).  The hut in which they lived was stone and had a thatched roof.  I also got to play with some guinea pigs (poor things) who are a food for the locals.
The next xtep was the highpoint of the trek - sorry.  A hike up to 4600m.  I managed to show everyone a clean set of heels and hit the summit just behind the guide (training in the lakes was a really good idea).  The views were fantastic and we all had a sip of whiskey to celebrate.  We trekked down into the valley below for a good rest overnight and a couple of sly snickers bars (wow - what have my Friday nights become)

23rd September - Lares trek

Up and out for 5 am this morning for the start of the Lares trek.  This was an alternative to the Inca trek because there were not enough permits.  Steve got the golden ticket for the Inca trail but Lucy, Andrea and I are all on the Lares.  The Lares apparently is more of a challenge and goes to a higher altitude (I say apparently though as Inca trail has more stone steps).
The bus joureny to the strat was a challenge with logs being placed across soem roadworks to get the bus across, I thought we were going to see the bus stuck in a hole at one point.  Then alighting the bus as we crossed some dodgy landslide on a cliff edge - fun times ahead.
The first incline was meant to be hell but seemed to be OK.  The altitude didnt effect me as I had shoved 50 odd cocoa leaves in my mouth to avoid any effects.
After lunch I had the bit between my teeth and walked into camp first and before the guide and the rest of the group, and well ahead of schedule and the Austrians (Danger Doris and Leo).
Overnight was really cold (below freezing) and it is rare for me to feel that, especially with some thermals on.... bbbbbrrrrrr

22nd September Cuzco (yes still here)

Saw Paul yesterday, he was struck down by the belly bug and had to see the doctor.  It also stopped him from starting his walk to Machu Pichu.  Thankfully I am on the mend now.
Went on a city tour, and started to see evidence of the protests, apparently there has been a lot of trouble.  We had to set off early as protestors were going to be out to play later.  As we drove out towards the Inca ruins we saw were there had been barricades on the roads, and also scorch marks were they had set fire to the road.  Apparently they are trying to disrupt the tourists at the airport and railway.  Shyri said that a firebomb had been thrown at a tour bus recently!!
We went to see an Inca burial site and a sacrificial table at another Inca ruin.  The highlight was Saqsaywaman (OK I cant help sniggering and saying Sexy Woman) which was an impressive Inca temple, partly destroyed by the Spanish.  The Spanish tried to destroy the Inca culture by destroying a lot of these sites and also putting crosses on top of mountains.  We also found an Inca slide which we all enjoyed having a go on and clattering into stones at the bottom.  I was worried I might squash poor Andrea when we went down the slide together!!  She didnt seem too bothered thankfully.
We were back in Cuzco by 10am (tour started at 6am) and had my staple diet of chicken sandwich which has been a saviour whilst on the cocktail of drugs given by the quack.  Although I am getting very envious of the others eating nice pastries with apple etc.
Down town we missed all the fun with helicopters and tear gas as the protesters started their party in the afternoon.  Sounds like a party night tonight!!!

20th September Cuzco - The Bolivian Belly strikes back!!

Was up over ten times in the night.  Belly really has struck back with avengence.  Called the Quack in the morning and he was out in 20 minutes (hell might just get travel insurance at home and get a quck on call rather than through the NHS).  Might just be food poisoning but with the treck and Machu Pichu coming up want to make sure I am ok.  The quack said everything was OK apart from belly, and drugs were dropped off 20 mins after his visit (cant fault the service).
Rest of the day was spent getting a guided tour of the USA courtesy of the CSI teams on Warner Bros TV.

19th September Cuzco

Room mate Steve left for the jungle this morning!!!  Hope he gets there as there are concerns over the transport due to protests at the airport.
Explored Cuzco main square and Cathedrals etc, and went for a small walk with Lucy up to a small church overlooking the town.  Impressive view of the square aswell.
Met Paul, Siemen and Julius for dinner, and it was reall good to catch up as not seen them for a while now.  They were in good spirits and enjoying their hostel - they must have been as Paul was half cut when he met us.  Although it might have had something to do with the strange tea bag thing he was chewing a gift from some Swedish girls!!!
The meal was poor though as we had to wait for ages and didn´t seem to be the best.  Rather non-plussed so they didnt get a tip.